Friday, May 10, 2013


SACRED SACRE COEUR. SACRE BLEU!

Today we visited Montmartre focusing on the Sacre Coeur Basilica, the beautiful white cathedral that overlooks the city. As usual, crowds of tourists made the pilgrimage up to the top of the hill. Some took the funicular train, but we braved it by foot up the long staircase.
Sacre Coeur Basilica, Montmartre

We took a path less traveled down from the summit and found ourselves in the bustle of the streets around Barbes-Rochechouart. Our next quest was to find Halle St. Pierre, a gallery specializing in art brut, outsider art, and art singulier. It was an unexpected and amazing collection of modern art primarily from the USA and France depicting dark and thought-provoking subject matter. Intricate paintings and sculptures abounded, unlike the simplicity that I usually associate with the naivety of outsider art. Full of images of sexuality, depravity, violence, futurism and the intermingling of human and animal forms, our visit to the museum was a mind-bending, disturbing, and ultimately exhilarating experience.

We took the Metro from Pigalle back to the Sorbonne area and wended our way back home, dropping in for a visit inside the Notre Dame Cathedral during a crowded and austere evening Catholic service. We were able to view the magnificent Rose Window and as the choir began to sing, I found myself deeply moved by the experience. It is no wonder that the ritual, music, and architecture of religion is so appealing and inspiring to so many.

On the way home we saw the sun breaking through the clouds. Some may have thought this to be an omen that god really does exist. I saw it as a photo opportunity:


We rounded off my sixtieth birthday with more crepes at a local creperie:


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